Gather Deli, Musicker café, Rothesay. Cadillac Kustomz Diner, Caledonia Bistro & Deli, Port Bannantyne.
One relishes the chance to go to an Island. But there are islands and Islands. Over drinks a friend recently asked, ’Which are your favourite Scottish islands to visit?’
I instinctively yelled out, ‘Tenerife!’
But what, I reflected, if the original question had been in the negative?
Amongst the beautiful setting and fading Victorian architectural bling of the Rothesay promenade I could only find one business with a fresh coat of paint on its exterior. The Gather Deli is next-door to its sister, the similarly smart Rothesay outlier the Sulking Room bar. No-one inside seemed to be sulking. Quite the opposite. As a driving PMiaV I was obliged to make for the adjacent Gather Deli. Everything in the interior is painted out in gunmetal. I think it works. I looked out at the rain and considered but didn’t buy the not inexpensive deli nibbles and breads. The young staff were friendly and efficient, coming up with coffee in a gratifying green cup and saucer and a flapjack for £6.70. Gather Deli almost pulls off the illusion that you are in a happening area of Glasgow, not Rothesay. Unfortunately, I cannot fail to address the mild trauma that in Gather Deli I was subjected to side 2 of Rumours in full on the sound system and the coffee was well below par, washed-out even. It’s all a matter of taste. Perhaps a bitter experience?
I prowled the streets. In a way Rothesay is fantastic; the Victorian pier and front gardens, a muscular ruined castle, beautiful seafront villas, the harbour and view across the water. All so near to Glasgow. In another way the dilapidated seafront buildings, the abandoned Academy, closed banks, empty churches and drab shops are quite shocking. It’s not just in Rothesay that the economic and social tide have been ebbing for decades on the straggling eastern side of mid-Argyll. There’s also Dunoon, Lochgilphead, Campbeltown…At least in Rothesay the iconic Deco Pavilion is being renovated, although no contractors were on-site this Monday.
In the Badlands, or rather Sadlands of shops behind the promenade I found the Musicker vegetarian café. There were traces of a musical past; a few guitars on the wall, an unplugged jukebox but these were not as memorable as the strange green booths and hard seating. Or as unmemorable as the coffee and panini. At least the staff were memorably Amazonian. Or perhaps just ready to make a run for it in their gym gear as 4 o’clock approached.
Leaving town on the endlessly wet afternoon I was unable to try the Cadillac Kustomz US Diner in Port Bannantyne as at 4.30pm I was just too early. This turned out to very much be a missed opportunity as it looked intriguing. Dig the Z. I did find the open Caledonia Bistro & Deli. A few people were eating and drinking in the mostly empty space. Could I just have coffee and a cake? I asked a small ginger child, apparently front-of-house, standing by the coffee machine. I would be quick as I only had 10 minutes if I was going to make the next Colintraive ferry.
Said child referred to an individual in the kitchen, off-stage. Just coffee and cake? As the progenitor of several sometimes obliging ginger children myself I felt this simple repast was within my grasp.
The answer came back. No.
Before the ginger child could not offer me a take-out I turned on my cuban heel and left.
Bute.
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